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Day 4 Route: Baranco Hut to Karanga Camp. |
Day 4 presets the first legitimate mountaineering
challenge of the Machame climb; the infamous Baranco wall rises 850 feet
straight up from camp 3 and is, to say the least, quite intimidating at first
glance. The Barranco Walls resulted from
Kilimanjaro’s volcanic history. Once Kilimanjaro became dormant, about 175,000
years ago, the Kibo summit was formed from fossilized magma. As the cooling
Magma collapsed inward, some dramatic rockfall resulted and it was one of these
massive slides down the southern face that tore the soft volcanic surface away
and resulted in the sheer basaltic-rock cliff.
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Baranco Wall and
Kilimanjaro Summit at Sunrise from Camp 3.
The climb is also commonly referred to as
the "Breakfast wall," as most climbs do this section soon after
breakfast on either day 4 or day 5. Since steep, narrow paths are cut
back and forth into the rock face, this route is not classified as
"technical," but it definitely class-4. A fall on the wall would have
some pretty devastating consequences. So I was very curious as to how all of
the greenhorns and porters would work themselves up the wall.
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Start of the
Baranco Wall.
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The
climb started out ominously, as any of the lower switchback had rocks that were
glazed with a slick coating of frozen dew. The ice had the consistency of
infamous "black ice" that occurs on highways after clear cold nights
following a rainstorm. Several climbers from other teams seriously dumped in
these slick sections; with one poor guy falling face down in an ice cold creek,
Brrrrr! My strategy for coping with the slick sections was to drag my foot back
and forward on the surface several times before putting full weight, in order
to roughen and melt the slick surface and provide better traction. Had these
conditions persisted up to the more highly exposed sections of the wall, it
would have been a very dangerous climb. Fortunately, after about 100 feet of
vertical climbing we were above the cold air trapped in the valley and the
temperature rose sufficiently above freezing that the trail was no longer
frozen.
The
most interesting section of the climb is the infamous “Kissing Wall.” This narrow
overhung section is quite exposed and requires a "big step" around a
large, smooth boulder, with an intimidating drop-off below. The
"step" reminded me of the famous "fresh air traverse" move
experienced about half way of the east face of Mt. Whitney in the California
Sierras. The name "Kissing Wall" comes from the profile presented by
Greenhorn climbers as they, incorrectly, attempt to flatted themselves against
the wall; opting to "kiss the wall"
as they step around. In fact, climbing so close to the wall surface actually
reduces the climber's balance, making the possibility of an erroneous slip more
likely. Several of the climbers were actually lead around the section, with
guides holding the leading and trailing hands of the climber.
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"Kissing the Wall."
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Baranco Wall Climbing Collage.
Once reaching the wall top the remainder of the climb to Karangu
camp was mostly flat and was travelled easily leading us into Camp 4 for a
well-deserved pre-dinner nap! One of the more interesting features of the
traverse to Karangu was the Eastern Breach, a totally barren stretch that was
scoured clean by an ancient volcanic eruption. At his altitude, the climate is
so hostile that the vegetation never grew back.
"Chillin" on Baranco Wall Break
Marquees as Karanga Camp.
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